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Pet owners shopping for Frontline, Advantage and other flea control products for their pets should be on the lookout for counterfeit versions of those products appearing on retailers' shelves. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, these products are packaged in cartons designed to look like legitimate versions of Advantage and Frontline but are not approved by the EPA. These counterfeit products may be missing instruction leaflets required by U.S. law. The packages also may not feature required child-resistant packaging and the applicators may not be the appropriate size dosage for the animal indicated on the package. Using such products could put your pet at risk, as the counterfeit products may contain too much or too little dosage of the active ingredients of the pesticide or different ingredients all together, according to the EPA.

The products affected are:

• Frontline Top Spot for Cats
• Frontline Top Spot for Dogs
• Frontline Plus for Cats
• Frontline Plus for Dogs
• Advantage 10 for Dogs
• Advantage 20 for Dogs
• Advantage 55 for Dogs
• Advantage 100 for Dogs
• Advantage 9 for Cats
• Advantage 18 for Cats

The packages for the legitimate and counterfeit versions of each product look similar, so you must open the packages and examine the contents inside to determine legitimacy. Legitimate Frontline products will meet the following criteria:

• The lot number on the carton and the lot number on the applicator package or individual applicators will match.
• The instruction leaflet is included and provides safety information, U.S. telephone numbers and storage and disposal instructions.
• The applicator package is child resistant, and directions for opening the applicator package include an illustration that looks like the applicator package.
• The applicator package has a notch between each individual applicator package. Text on the package is in English only.
• Each individual applicator has a label that includes the name of the manufacturer (Merial); the EPA registration number; the contents measured in fluid ounces (not metric measurement); a list of active ingredients, and the statements "Caution", "Keep out of reach of children" and "See full label for additional directions" in English.
• The applicator label for dog products includes the size of the dog in pounds.

For Advantage products, the following criteria can be used to determine legitimacy:

• All applicator tubes will feature directions printed in English. Any applicator with instructions in another language is counterfeit.
• Applicator tubes will include the EPA registration number, word "WARNING" and a child-safety statement.
• Also on the tube is a reference to referring to the main label of the product for directions, as well as the name of the manufacturer (Bayer).
• Legitimate products will feature an active ingredient statement that matches the statement on the retail carton. Counterfeit products may feature different statements.

It is important to note that the EPA also considers versions of the drug sold in foreign countries but imported into the United States to be counterfeit as well. Products purchased in foreign countries may not have the same safety warnings or child-resistant packaging as products approved for sale in America, and the dosages and ingredients may be different. If you have purchased counterfeit products, the EPA recommends you dispose of the product according to local solid waste guidelines. You should also notify the staff of the retail outlet you purchased the product from as well as the EPA regional office in your state. Click here for more information about these counterfeit products.

To properly evaluate and clean your pet’s teeth, general anesthesia or deep sedation is necessary. If teeth cleaning is done without anesthesia or deep sedation, it is usually done outside a veterinary hospital by non-professional individuals. Only veterinarians are authorized to administer anesthesia or sedation to pets and veterinarians are the only professionals who can properly clean your pets’ teeth.

There are several reasons why anesthesia or deep sedation is necessary for oral examination and dental cleaning:

• Dental tartar is firmly attached to the surface of teeth and needs to be removed.
• Scaling by ultrasonic scalers and sharp hand instruments are necessary in order to remove the dental tartar.
• Any sudden movement can cause injury to the animal or individual performing the dental procedure.
• Dental scaling is performed above and below the gum line. Scaling the teeth above the gum line usually does not cause discomfort; however, scaling below the gum line (or under the gums) can cause discomfort. The area below the gum line, or subgingival space, is the most important area to clean as periodontal disease begins here.
• Humans cooperate during dental procedures; however, without anesthesia or deep sedation, dogs and cats do not.
• Scaling above the gum line offers nothing but cosmetic results. Scaling must be done below the gum line.

A complete examination of all surfaces of the teeth is impossible to perform while the veterinary patient is awake. The external surface of some teeth may be superficially examined; however, the inside surfaces of the teeth (within the oral cavity) cannot be evaluated unless anesthesia or deep sedation is administered.

Laboratory blood tests along with an ECG and radiographs are often necessary before a dental patient can be anesthetized. The older the patient, the more tests that may be needed prior to administering general anesthesia. Animals with congenital disease and pets suffering from chronic conditions are a greater anesthetic risk than completely healthy pets. If your pet is considered an anesthetic risk, your veterinarian will recommend the tests that are necessary prior to administering anesthesia.

The anesthesia given to one pet may be completely different than the anesthesia given to another pet. Your veterinarian can choose from a variety of pre-anesthetic medications and anesthesia induction agents. After the pre-anesthesia medication and induction agents are administered, general anesthesia is usually maintained with a gas agent (isoflurane or sevoflurane) mixed with oxygen.

Monitoring the anesthetized patient is a fundamental procedure in veterinary medicine. Most veterinary hospitals evaluate the condition of their anesthetized patients by using one or more of the following monitors:

• Electronic Respiratory Monitor
• Pulse Oximeter
• Blood-Pressure Monitor
• Electrocardiograph (ECG)
• Esophageal Stethoscope
• Carbon Dioxide Monitor

Along with patient monitoring, it is important to keep the pet warm and comfortable during the dental procedure. Since many procedures may last longer than an hour, the pet’s core body temperature may become lowered. By using blankets, hot water bottles and heated tables, the veterinary patient’s body temperature can be maintained at its normal value.

During the last few years, veterinary dentistry has made tremendous strides. By taking advantage of the dental procedures offered at our hospital, your pet can enjoy the benefits of having excellent teeth well into his or her senior years.

About two weeks before the kittens are due, a nesting box (or queening box) should be introduced to the expectant mother. (see article on Gestation in Cats) This box should be made from a washable material and located in a warm and secluded area. The bottom of the box should be lined with an absorbent material that can be changed frequently. Newspapers, towels, or clean rags make excellent bed liners.

The first stage of labor may last anywhere from several hours to an entire day (24 hours). The queen is restless, fidgety, and usually refuses to eat. The expectant mother may pace about the house or begin digging in the queening box. Abdominal contractions signal the end of this period and the beginning of active labor.

Straining of the stomach muscles (contractions) marks the beginning of the second phase of labor. As the mother continues to strain, less time elapses between contractions. Generally within 15 minutes to one hour after contractions begin, a fluid-filled sac appears at the vaginal opening. This sac surrounds the first kitten.

After several contractions, the first kitten is born. The time interval between successive kittens can range anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours. Some experienced mothers are able to complete the entire birthing process in 30 minutes.

Generally when each kitten is born, it is enclosed in a membrane or sac. The mother usually licks the kitten’s face and breaks the sac. If this sac is not immediately broken by the mother, human intervention is required. The sac must be opened, and the kitten’s face must be rubbed. Rubbing the kitten’s face with a clean cloth is an excellent method to stimulate breathing. Sometimes the kitten is born without a membrane or sac. If this occurs, the sac will follow the kitten, arriving together with the umbilical cord.

There are two normal positions for delivery. The kittens can come out "head first" or "rear first". A "rear first" delivery is generally more difficult than a "head first" delivery.

Human intervention is required when a kitten is lodged in the birth canal. When this occurs (and the mother is not able to expel the kitten herself), the mother must be restrained and gentle traction applied to the kitten. The kitten is grasped with a clean dry towel and pulled in a downward position, toward the mother’s feet. When a kitten is lodged in the birth canal for a considerable amount of time, it is usually born dead.

A greenish-black discharge occurs between births. This discharge is normal and is often blood-tinged. If a reddish discharge occurs at the beginning of labor, and the expectant mother strains for more than one hour without delivering kittens, immediate veterinary attention is required.

After each kitten is born, the remaining portion of the sac should be removed from it’s face. Any mucus surrounding the nostrils should be cleared away. Kittens should be dried with a clean towel and rubbed in order to stimulate breathing. Using a fine-diameter thread, each umbilical cord should be tied about one inch from the kitten’s belly. The cord is cut on the far side of the knot, and the remaining stump (with the cord) is dipped into a white iodine solution. If the kittens are similar looking, it is best to number each one with a permanent marker.

Nursing Kittens

When the mother is relaxed and she settles down with her kittens, it is safe to assume that the birthing process is over. A small amount of vaginal bleeding is normal and this often continues for 2 or 3 days. If bleeding seems heavy or continues beyond this period, veterinary attention is required.

Known for their intelligence, beauty and skill for commanding livestock, Herding dogs received their own American Kennel Club classification in 1983; the group previously belonged to the Working Group of dogs.

The Herding group ranges from larger breeds, like the Australian Shepherd, to smaller breeds, such as the Welsh Corgi. All members of the group have one thing in common, though: the ability to control the movement of other animals. For example, the Corig, usually only about a foot tall at the shoulders, can drive a herd of cows across a pasture just by leaping and nipping at their heels.

Border Collie

Herding dogs are most often used to control sheep and cattle. Each breed in the group does this differently. Some breeds, like the Australian Cattle Dog, nip at the heels of cows and sheep to move them along. These breeds are called "heelers." Others, like the Border Collie, stare down livestock (a method called "strong eye"); they are called "headers." This herding instinct is modified predatory behavior, and most herding dogs are bred so that they are strong and have a high amount of energy, characteristics necessary for long days in the fields.

However, most of these dogs never have to put their herding instincts into practice. And while their intelligence is attractive to prospective pet owners, herding dogs need lots of mental and physical stimulation, or else they will grow bored.

Owners should give their dogs plenty of time for play and exercise, such as brisk walks, games of fetch, and dog sports. Owners can also give their herding dogs a chance to put those herding skills to use. In recent years, herding trial competitions have gained popularity in the United States, and there are more and more trainers available to help dogs, and their owners, learn herding skills. Organizations like the American Herding Breeds Association (AHBA), the Australian Shepherd Club of America (ASCA) and the AKC all offer herding trial programs, though rules and regulations regarding which dogs can participate vary among each group.

Australian Cattle Dog

Breeds in the Herding Group:

• Australian Cattle Dog
• Australian Shepherd
• Bearded Collie
• Belgian Malinois
• Belgian Sheepdog
• Belgian Tervuren
• Border Collie
• Bouvier des Flandres
• Briard
• Canaan Dog
• Collie
• German Shepherd Dog
• Old English Sheepdog
• Puli
• Shetland Sheepdog
• Welsh Corgi (Cardigan)
• Welsh Corgi (Pembroke)

The Border Collie takes its name from the border between Scotland and England, where the breed was originally developed to herd livestock. Many Border Collies still fulfill this traditional role, though it is more likely to find the breed engaged in a game of catch in the backyard than guiding sheep over hills and valleys.

Border Collies are medium-sized and strong, with a hearty stamina that makes them capable of spending long days in the field. The breed is energetic, intelligent and alert. Border Collies are affectionate toward friends and family, but are reserved around strangers.

Border Collies round up live stock with an intense gaze known as "strong eye." This is used with a stalking style of movement, both of which help the Border Collie keep wayward cows and sheep in line. Border Collies are also very trainable and are born with excellent instincts and reasoning abilities. A well-trained Border Collie can work on its own, out of sight of its master and without any commands. When a Border Collie is in "working mode," the dog will adopt a herding pose—head and forelegs lowered, eyes focused, and tail down, with a portion of the tail upturned.

Working does not necessarily mean herding sheep, though. Obedience classes, dog sports, games of catch or chasing a Frisbee all can be "work" to your Border Collie. While many Border Collies are kept as family pets in suburban homes, owners can still give their dogs an opportunity to use herding skills— in recent years, herding trial competitions have grown increasingly popular, and there are a number of trainers available to teach dogs, and owners, basic herding skills. The breed’s keen intellect made it especially adept at learning new commands. Because of this, it is important to not teach a Border Collie any behavior you do not want it to perform for the rest of his or her life.

A Border Collie’s herding instinct may extend to children, as well. If not trained properly, Border Collies may treat small children like livestock, nipping at their heels and steering them in a particular direction. This behavior may become problematic in later years, and it is recommended that children become an integral part of a Border Collie’s training regiment, so as to show the dog who is in charge.

Border Collies are susceptible to Collie Eye Anomaly (CEA), hip dysplasia and deafness. Because they are physically active dogs, Border Collies are prone to pulled muscles, cuts, punctures and other athletic injuries. Owners should keep a first-aid kit and veterinarian’s phone number handy.

Misreading or ignoring body language earns more than a few cat lovers a scratch or bite from time to time -- the result of missing a cat’s "I’ve had enough" signs.

The classic example is the cat who, while being petted, "suddenly" grabs with teeth and claws, to the shock and sometimes anger of the human doing the petting.

In fact, these "out of the blue" attacks rarely are. Before the bite or clawing, a cat usually gives out subtle (to us, anyway) signs of diminished tolerance. Primary among them is an increase in the stiffness and twitching of the tail.

The reasons behind this behavior are not well understood. If your cat has grown tired of petting, he or she may exhibit some of the following signs:

• The cat becomes restless
• The tail begins to twitch
• The cat’s ears turn back or flick back and forth
• The cat's head starts moving toward your hand

The problem often starts with petting your cat’s tummy, a vulnerable area for any animal. Watch your cat’s body signs. If the cat shows any of these signals, immediately put the cat down and stop petting him or her. This not only keeps teeth and claws from entering your skin, it also builds up his trust in you and his tolerance for physical attention. Do not impose any sort of physical punishment on the cat—this may prompt him or her to bite, and will make future interactions with your cat more difficult.

Cats may also display similar body language when they are afraid. Though their body posture—crouching low to the floor, ears back, tail tucked, rolling slightly to the side—may be similar to a dog's submissive postures, cats in these positions are fearful and defensive and may attack if touched.

If your cat exhibits fearful behavior, closely observe the cat to determine the trigger for this behavior. It could be anything—a stranger, another animal, loud noises and so on. To help eliminate fearful behavior, try to desensitize your cat to the stimulus. First, introduce the stimulus at a distance while praising the cat and feeding him or her a treat. Slowly move the stimulus closer as you continue to praise and feed the cat. This process takes time; if at any point your cat shows fearful behavior, you have proceeded too quickly and must start again. If your attempts are not successful, you may need to call a animal behavior specialist.

Whether you are relaxing with your cat on the couch or watching your cat interact with friends and family, keep an eye on his or her body language. Your guests—and your cat—will thank you for it.

Dogs dig digging. For some dogs, it seems to be a natural instinct. Dogs dig holes in order to bury objects. Dogs like to bury objects and return to them at a later date. Some dogs bury anything and everything. In the summertime, the holes that they dig are cool and make comfortable sleeping quarters.

There are several methods that exist for controlling this behavior. We have listed only two. The first method is to redirect the behavior. In this situation, the dog learns to dig someplace else. The second method involves the use of a special collar. This type of collar has a refillable reservoir that contains eucalyptus. When the dog barks, the eucalyptus is sprayed in his (or her) direction. The collar method is used as a deterrent and can help eliminate the digging behavior.

Redirecting the behavior

If your yard is a mess and you would like your dog to dig in only one place, a reinforcement technique may work. This may take some time and requires that you follow your dog every time he goes outdoors.

Take your dog to a remote area in your yard. Bury one of his favorite toys in that area (or bury something that you know he would enjoy burying). Allow him to dig up the object. After he digs up the object, give him a reward (food or praise - we prefer praise!). If he begins to dig anywhere else, you must reprimand him. Scolding, a pull on the collar, or a small spray from a eucalyptus collar will usually suffice. You must be persistent and vary the rewards or your dog will easily forget.

Extinguishing the Behavior

This technique also involves constant supervision of your dog. You must watch him at all times and intervene as soon as you see any indication of digging activity. You can try screaming at your dog; however, a eucalyptus collar is almost indispensable. A small spray of eucalyptus from the collar goes much further when trying to correct this behavior.

The advantage of the eucalyptus collar is that the correction is not coming from you. Screaming at your dog or reprimanding him only makes him afraid of you. By using the collar, the dog thinks that the correction comes as a result of his action.

Good luck!

Thanks to the creation and marketing of cat litter in the mid 1940's, more and more cats have become indoor-only pets. As such, cats are now leading longer lives, with some living 20+ years! Our homes offer a safer, healthier environment than life on the street. The average life span of an indoor cat is 10 years, whereas the average lifespan of an outdoor cat is just 2 years. There is no doubt that indoors is safer.

Yet, when we choose to make our cats indoors-only companions, we have a responsibility to provide the stimulation that was previously provided by the great outdoors. Scratching and climbing posts become trees; interactive toys become hunted birds, bugs and field mice. A rotating array of cat playthings provides excitement, unpredictability and exercise which, in turn, gives your cat everything it needs while extending its life inside. With that said, many cat lovers still prefer to commune with nature with their feline friends. Fortunately, there are several ways to minimize the risks.

Most importantly, while vaccinations are important for indoor cats, they are absolutely critical to the health of outdoor cats. The threat of rabies, FeLV, FIV, and FIP, transmitted through altercations with wildlife, or interaction with stray, unvaccinated cats, should be enough to have your cat immunized in order to give you peace of mind. All of these diseases can be prevented and can provide your outdoor cat with proper protection should he need it.

If you feel as though your cat deserves the fun of being outside, but want to provide a safe way to experience nature, there are alternatives to opening the door and watching him go. Harnesses and leashes (gasp!) have been developed for cats. Either cat specific or small dog accessories fit well and are relatively inexpensive. Training your cat to walk with the harness takes patience (unless you start with a kitten, in which case it could take less time), but the reward is worth it. Your cat will be able to experience the joys of being outside in a controlled environment. How far he can travel is up to you!

Outdoor enclosures are another great alternative. Since outdoor enclosures are usually homemade, they come in all shapes and sizes. For durability, chicken wire or wire hardware cloth - secured around a simple wood frame - is preferable to ordinary window screening. The most successful structures usually feature climbing and resting furniture inside. A shaded area is necessary for warm or hot weather. Whether you choose an outdoor enclosure or add cat-proof netting to the top of traditional fencing, they are safest used only when you are at home able to check on them often.

Even with the option of training or providing your cat with an enclosed outdoor adventure area, you still need to consider identification. Lost cats result in heartache that can easily be avoided. Microchip and ID tags provide easy identification and may be what reunites you with your cat should he / she get lost or scooped up by a caring, but ignorant stranger.

When deciding whether or not to let your cat outdoors, it is important for you to consider the alternatives. As the pet industry expands and becomes more creative, more and more indoor/outdoor products are going to become available. Of course, there is nothing better than being outside. If you can provide your cat with the proper care and protection, allowing your cat to go outdoors can be a fun and healthy existence.